Yarn production begins with the raw material, which can be natural like cotton or wool, or synthetic like polyester. The spinning process transforms these raw materials into continuous threads. The structure of the thread is crucial to determine its properties such as strength, elasticity and absorbency.

Natural yarns, such as wool or cotton, are obtained through processes that may include carding and combing, which align the fibers and remove impurities. For synthetic yarns, production begins with polymerization, followed by melt spinning or water bath spinning, depending on the type of polymer.

Natural vs Synthetic Yarns

The differences between natural and synthetic yarns extend to various aspects, from their origin and physical properties, to their environmental impact and applications.

Origin and Composition

• Natural Yarns : They are derived from natural sources such as plants (cotton, linen) and animals (wool, silk). Their structure is made up of chains of complex organic molecules.
• Synthetic Yarns : These are created through chemical processes using petroleum products or other synthetic substances. Polyester, nylon, and acrylic are common examples of synthetic yarns.

Physical Properties

Natural Yarns :
• Breathability: Generally more breathable, they allow the body to regulate temperature better.
• Absorbency: They tend to absorb moisture, making them comfortable to wear, but also slower to dry.
• Durability: Varies by type, but many natural yarns (such as wool and silk) are very durable.

Synthetic Yarns :
• Water Resistance and Quick Drying: They tend to repel water and dry quickly.
• Durability: Often more resistant to wear, mildew and moths than natural yarns.
• Shape Retention: They tend to hold their shape better and resist creasing.

Environmental Impact

• Natural Yarns : Their production can be more sustainable, but depends on agricultural and farming practices. Some, like cotton, can require large amounts of water and the use of pesticides.
• Synthetic Yarns : Their production is often more polluting, using petroleum and other chemicals. However, more sustainable options are available, such as recycled synthetic yarns.

Why are natural yarns warmer?

The main reason why natural yarns are generally considered warmer than synthetic yarns lies in their structure and insulating properties.

• Fiber Structure: Natural fibers like wool have a spiral structure that traps air. This trapped air acts as an insulator, keeping the body warm.
• Absorbency: Natural yarns can absorb a certain amount of moisture before feeling damp on the skin. This helps keep the body dry and warm, especially in cold, humid conditions.
• Reaction to Body Heat: Some natural yarns, such as wool, have the ability to react to changes in body temperature, providing thermal insulation that adapts to the conditions.

Sustainability and Environmental Impact

Sustainability is a crucial consideration in the textile industry. Natural yarns, although derived from renewable resources, can require large amounts of water and pesticides. On the other hand, synthetic yarns are often derived from petroleum and their production process can be polluting. However, there are innovations in both fields to reduce environmental impact, such as recycling materials and using greener processes.

The choice of yarn therefore has a significant impact not only on the characteristics of the finished product but also on the environment. The growing awareness of sustainability is pushing production towards more ecological materials and processes, a positive trend for the environment and for conscious consumers.

Types of Yarns

Wool
Wool is a natural fiber obtained from the shearing of sheep, mainly raised in Australia, New Zealand, China and countries of the European Union. After shearing, the wool is washed, carded and spun. The process can vary depending on the fineness and quality of the wool. The yarn is elastic, resistant and naturally insulating. It can absorb moisture while remaining dry on the skin, making it ideal for winter clothing.
Wool production can be sustainable, but it depends on farming practices and land management. Wool is biodegradable and can be a renewable resource if managed responsibly .

Mohair
Mohair is made from the hair of the Angora goat. These goats originated in Anatolia, but are now raised all over the world. Angora goats are sheared twice a year. The collected hair is then cleaned and spun. Mohair is known for its lustre and softness. It is lighter and warmer than traditional wool, making it suitable for high-quality clothing. Mohair production can be sustainable, but it depends on the farming practices. Ethical management of goats and responsible use of resources are crucial.

Cashmere
Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of a specific breed of goat, mainly raised in Mongolia, China, India and Iran. Cashmere is harvested during the goats' spring moult, a gentle process that does not harm the animals. The fiber is then cleaned and spun. Cashmere is extremely soft, lightweight and offers excellent thermal insulation. It is one of the most luxurious and expensive yarns. The sustainability of cashmere is a debated topic. High demand has led to intensive farming practices that can damage the environment. However, there are initiatives to promote sustainable practices.

Alpaca
The alpaca is an animal native to the Andes in South America, mainly Peru, Bolivia and Chile. Alpaca fiber is harvested by shearing once a year, a process that does not harm the animal.
The resulting yarn is notoriously soft, often compared to cashmere for its pleasant feel. It offers excellent thermal insulation: alpaca fiber contains small air pockets that retain heat, making it warmer than sheep's wool.
Extremely light and resistant, the yarn is hypoallergenic.

Cotton
Cotton is a natural fiber produced primarily in India, China, and the United States. Growing cotton requires a significant amount of water and often the use of pesticides. Organic cotton and sustainable growing practices are gaining popularity as greener alternatives. Harvesting can be done by hand or mechanically, after which the cotton is cleaned, carded, and spun. It is prized for its softness, absorbency, and breathability. It is versatile and used in a wide range of clothing.

Linen
It is obtained from the flax plant and is one of the oldest fibers used by man, currently produced mainly in Europe. Production involves harvesting the plants, followed by processes such as retting, scouring and combing to separate the fibers. Linen is known for its strength and ability to remain cool to the touch. It is less elastic than cotton, which makes it prone to creasing, but is very popular for summer clothing and bed linen.

Silk
Silk is a natural fiber produced by silkworms during the formation of the cocoon. China is the largest producer, followed by India and Uzbekistan. Silk production begins with the breeding of silkworms, which are fed exclusively on mulberry leaves. The cocoons are then collected and spun into silk thread. It is renowned for its softness, lustre and resistance. The environmental impact is linked to the use of resources for the breeding of silkworms. However, there are forms of “ethical” silk or “peace silk”, where the silkworms naturally leave the cocoon before harvesting.

When you shop, think about the environment! Choose durable, long-lasting items that are ethically packaged.

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